The Sword in Your Hand
- Toecutter
- Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 2:21 am
- Location: Oregon
Swords are okay, but guns have far more stopping power! While I've confirmed the Smith and Wesson 500 Magnum is truly the most powerful handgun in the world (damn, the 500 Magnum round can hold just 100 grain more powder than a .475 Wildey Magnum), it's far less expensive to invest in a Taurus Raging Bull in .454 Casull (the second-most powerful handgun in the world).
For a bladed self-defense weapon, I'd carry a Kukri, Coffin-handled Bowie-knife, or a USMC Ka-Bar fighting knife. The Kukri has an angled blade, which makes it perfect for slicing opponents in a downward cut (like through the left shoulder, and on into the gut). The Bowie Knife has the classic clip-point, which gives it a sharper tip, making it far more effective as a thrusting AND cutting weapon. The Bowie knife is also large enough for most men to "make up for something".
Then there's the famous Ka-Bar, which basically takes the lessons of the Bowie knife, and shrinks it down into a multi-purpose, long-lasting defensive weapon.
For all-out attack, axes are far superior! Granted, they have no defensive capabilities, and they wear out the user after a while, but the enemy will be too busy trying to steady himself behind his shield absorbing your blows, to even think of wielding his sword to attack.
For both offensive and defensive capabilities, a Goddentag (I think that's how you spell it) is far better than any sword. A small band of Flemish peasants with no weapons training whatsoever easily defeated a handful of plate-armored knights in the late Middle Ages, just because the spike-equipped pole-arm was so much easier to knock the knights off their horses.
Back to topic, though, I'd have to choose the M1913 Patton Saber. General George Patton, Jr. designed this weapon while still a Lieutenant. He was given this honor, because he was an expert in the use of cavalry sabers. Unlike prior cavalry sabers, which are designed just for cutting (so they don't get stuck in a footsoldier, dismounting the user while in the process of drawing it out during a charge), Patton designed his saber as both a cutting and thrusting weapon.
For a bladed self-defense weapon, I'd carry a Kukri, Coffin-handled Bowie-knife, or a USMC Ka-Bar fighting knife. The Kukri has an angled blade, which makes it perfect for slicing opponents in a downward cut (like through the left shoulder, and on into the gut). The Bowie Knife has the classic clip-point, which gives it a sharper tip, making it far more effective as a thrusting AND cutting weapon. The Bowie knife is also large enough for most men to "make up for something".
Then there's the famous Ka-Bar, which basically takes the lessons of the Bowie knife, and shrinks it down into a multi-purpose, long-lasting defensive weapon.
For all-out attack, axes are far superior! Granted, they have no defensive capabilities, and they wear out the user after a while, but the enemy will be too busy trying to steady himself behind his shield absorbing your blows, to even think of wielding his sword to attack.
For both offensive and defensive capabilities, a Goddentag (I think that's how you spell it) is far better than any sword. A small band of Flemish peasants with no weapons training whatsoever easily defeated a handful of plate-armored knights in the late Middle Ages, just because the spike-equipped pole-arm was so much easier to knock the knights off their horses.
Back to topic, though, I'd have to choose the M1913 Patton Saber. General George Patton, Jr. designed this weapon while still a Lieutenant. He was given this honor, because he was an expert in the use of cavalry sabers. Unlike prior cavalry sabers, which are designed just for cutting (so they don't get stuck in a footsoldier, dismounting the user while in the process of drawing it out during a charge), Patton designed his saber as both a cutting and thrusting weapon.
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- Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 8:42 pm
i wouldn't want ANY sword that didn't weigh at least 10 pounds. that's too light. and heavier swords would have more weight behind the attacks. as for what sword i'd like, i'd rather have the dagger from the book Into the Labyrinth. can't remember it's name, but it'd become somthing superior to what your enemy had. the thing turned into a dragon in the book.SQ wrote:... Those anime swords though.. If you've never cut something with a katana before... It takes a lot out of you. And anything heavier then three pounds will tire you out after about three swings, so...
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- Village Idiot
- Joined: Fri May 03, 2002 12:17 am
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oh, please...pyro_256 wrote:i wouldn't want ANY sword that didn't weigh at least 10 pounds. that's too light. and heavier swords would have more weight behind the attacks. as for what sword i'd like, i'd rather have the dagger from the book Into the Labyrinth. can't remember it's name, but it'd become somthing superior to what your enemy had. the thing turned into a dragon in the book.SQ wrote:... Those anime swords though.. If you've never cut something with a katana before... It takes a lot out of you. And anything heavier then three pounds will tire you out after about three swings, so...

Anyways, according to experts most katana weight in around 1.5 to 2.7kg. Therer are heavier versions, though. But there is a catch: the lateral impact force does increase in direct relation to mass... so the more attack power, the more tired you will get.
...AND REMEMBER:

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- SQ
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... Which is why you don't want any weight to slow you down, add to the equation, and tire you out more. =\
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- FirestormXIII
- Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2001 6:22 pm
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- Village Idiot
- Joined: Fri May 03, 2002 12:17 am
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Longer blade sounds great, but in relation to what?FirestormXIII wrote:Double-bladed lightsaber
or
Cervantes' version of Soul Edge
If we're going realistic, I'd be carrying around a katana (albeit modified with a longer blade.)
Sizing, as you may know, is based traditionally on hypotenuse from your hanging wrist to the ground... which depends on what angle you hold at. The average length katana is 65cm to 80cm ( 29" to 32" in The States ).
But then, the average height of the populus varies from region to region. Including from Asia to The States... which might also be the reason why Citroen and Renault automotors have higher ceiling height.
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- Village Idiot
- Joined: Fri May 03, 2002 12:17 am
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It's really quite annoying when online sword merchants don't bother to include a scale. Those of them who do usually have a tilted blade image or a bad capture angle... if they manage to get the figures right, they use a stupid US 0,25$ piece or occasionally Imperial.danielwang wrote:The average length katana is 65cm to 80cm ( 29" to 32" in The States )
If they don't list the wingspan and point curvature of the blade, it's fake. And real retailers use centimeters.
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- moonslayer
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 8:57 pm
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Kami...Folded Steel
Notice the O-kissaki and the Kami engraving on the blades!
Saya: red lacquer with Japanese silk sageo.
Tsuba: hardened blackened copper, with Kami motif in relief and selective detailing of silver and gold.
Menuki, Fuchi, Kashira, Koiguchi, Kurakata and Kojiri: blackened bronze with relief carving accentuated with copper, silver and gold.
Habaki: two piece construction, the inner section being copper and the outer section gold-plated brass.
Tsuka: high quality same with Japanese silk ito.
I know I already metioned a sword but this would be the one I'd pick that acually exists. Unless I find something better.
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- Jim Hawkings21122
- Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2003 6:18 pm
- Location: behind your back.......
hmmm never knew reverse blade was a real sword, well i'll be damned, first you can pound the crap out of them with a blint object then you can finish them off with the business end of it.

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